DIY Stairs Makeover: How to Install Wood Treads & Risers Over Old Steps
Nov 07, · Easily remodel carpeted stairs to beautiful hardwoodUse a urethane based construction adhesive with RetroTreadsWider cove covers imperfections in existing st. Mar 23, · Install the Treads. Start at the bottom and work your way up the steps so that you can add extra screws into treads from the back of the riser above it. Space the holes on the treads evenly since the wood filler will be visible after the steps are gooddatingstory.com Time: 48 hrs.
Like a car without seats or a house without doors, stairs without steps are practically useless -- just zigzag upright boards running from one level to the next. Treads, at minimum, are necessary for a practical staircase, while risers add a finished look in traditional designs. Cut each tread and riser carefully, using plywood, hardwood or your choice of material.
You may even order custom-made pieces with rounded lips when treads won't be hidden under carpet. Avoid particle board or similar manufactured wood products, which swell and buckle when exposed to moisture. Measure the length of each tread, which corresponds to the width of install stairway. Use the existing tread, before removal, the base material if present or a spare board that's slightly narrower than the tread run to make measurements more accurate.
Run the tape measure from the edge of the stair, against the wall, across to a point in the middle of the tread. Mark the stopping point.
Measure from the opposite edge in to the stopping point. Add both measurements together to determine the full tread length. What do you mean by deferred tax each tread separately to ensure a precise fit. Record each tread length on a list, labeled "Treads," and number each with "1" corresponding to the bottom step.
Find the depth of each tread, from heel to toe, properly riserd the stair run. Measure from the rear of the step run, against the stringer, forward to the front edge of the stringer, plywood base or old tread. Add 1 inch for a lip, or omit if you plan to use nosing trim.
Building code generally demands a go of at least 9, if not 11, inches. Consult your local building authority for further information. Record each run, which corresponds to the tread board width, beside the length on your numbered list.
Determine the length of each riser, again holding a board against one edge and using it as a middle onstall if the stairs lacks risers. Make a second heading on your measurement list and mark it "Risers. Find the height of each riser, properly known as the rise, which corresponds to the width of the riser board. Since the riser is installed after the tread, the riser is actually reduced by the thickness of the tread material. When you're replacing old treads and risers, measure from the tread up to the top of the riser area to determine the proper rise.
Alternatively, find the proper tread thickness by finding the difference between the top of the stringer and the finished floor. Record each rise beside the correct riser length. Order the risers and imstall, specifying the correct measurements, for convenience and ease. Alternatively, cut each piece yourself on a table saw. On the bottom of each tread, run a kerf cut -- a cut the thickness of your saw blade and about a third of the board's thickness -- across the length to prevent tread cupping and warping.
Dry fit the first tread and riser to ensure it works well before riser the next. Sand and finish each piece. Install, one at a time, in the proper position according to the numbering. Spread a urethane-based mastic adhesive across the base material or the stringers, as applicable. Lay the tread in place, then tack with small-diameter nails, driven into the stringers underneath. Finish with the risers, attached similarly. Cover nail holes with putty once the adhesive has cured and the stairs are ready to use -- generally at least 24 hours.
After growing up in construction and treafs more than 30 years in the field, she believes a girl can swing a hammer with the best of them. She enjoys "green" or innovative solutions and unusual construction. By Karie Lapham Fay.
Related Articles. Tips Your local building code has saying what you mean book specifications governing risers, treads and other stairway elements.
Consult the code to ensure compliance.
Setting Up Wood Stairways: A Summary
Sep 13, · Almost Done! I prepped the treads by staining and applying polyurethane. The risers are mdf and I painted a 4 by 8 sheet with several coats before cutting do. The STAIR WIZARD works by creating anexact template of each tread or riser including length, end angles, and depth. Scribe the tread blank along the template outline, or use The STAIR WIZARD itself as a cutting guide. It automatically allows for the desired tread overhang and accommodates stairs up to 14 inches deep and 53 inches gooddatingstory.com Size: 2MB. Feb 22, · With the overhang removed, your new risers can go right to the top of the old stair. Use a generous amount of construction adhesive under each tread and riser. Then screw from the back to secure.
Installation procedures for Flush Stairnose for Laminate Floors. Under no circumstances should foam underlayment be placed on stair steps or risers. This will result in an unsafe condition.
Do not use over-the-top step nose molding on individual stair treads. Home ArmstrongFlooring. Product Information. Cut off any existing bullnose flush with the riser of the stair providing the dimension change does not violate local building codes Fig. Installation of Stair Treads Beginning at the bottom riser, measure and cut a piece of laminate plank to fit flush with the existing stair tread.
If the laminate has an attached foam or fabric, it must be removed. Glue in place by applying a 3" 7. Refer to construction adhesive label for all recommendations, warnings and safety precautions.
Press in place. Measure and cut stair nose to length. Dry fit the stair nose to the edge of the first tread with the molding nose overlapping the laminate piece on the riser below. Measure the distance from the edge of the stair nose to the next riser Fig. Measure and cut to width and length another piece of laminate plank for the stair tread.
Using a utility knife or table saw, remove the tongue. If the laminate has an attached fabric, it must also be removed. Apply a bead of construction adhesive in a 3" 7. On wood subfloors, drill appropriate size holes into the installed stair nose and anchor with 6d finish nails Fig. Set nails using a nail punch. Fill holes with a repair stick. To avoid shifting over concrete, allow enough time for the construction adhesive to set prior to continuing the installation. This time will vary depending upon the adhesive being used.
Apply a bead of adhesive preferably a 5-minute epoxy to the lip of the stair nose. Following the manufacturer's recommendations, immediately remove any excess adhesive from the laminate surface. Place the tongue side of the flooring against the stair nose, being sure that the laminate plank surface is flush with the stair nose surface.
Push pieces together until joint is tight and flush, then remove excess adhesive. Repeat steps 1—12 until installation is complete. Allow 24 hours of curing time before exposing stairs to traffic. On wood subfloors, drill appropriate size holes into the installed stair nose and anchor with 6d finish nails. Install the S Quiet Comfort Underlayment leaving a gap between the stair nose and the underlayment one- half the width of the laminate plank. Using a utility knife or table saw, remove the tongue from the laminate plank to be installed to the stair nose.
Apply a bead of adhesive preferably a 5-minute epoxy to the lip on the stair nose. Place the tongue side of the flooring against the stair nose being sure that the laminate surface is flush with the stair nose surface. From this point, continue the installation of the laminate flooring using the installation instructions provided with the laminate flooring. Using a utility knife or table saw, remove the bottom lip of the stair nose.
Following the instructions listed below, set the router bit and manufacture a groove on the stair nose. Use a 7 mm router bit and 7 mm splines for 7 mm products and an 8 mm router bit and 8 mm splines for 8 mm products. Using a utility knife or table saw, remove the tongue or groove from the laminate plank to be installed to the stair nose. Following the instructions listed below, set the router bit and manufacture a groove on the laminate plank.
Apply a bead of Armsrong EverSeal to both sides of one edge of the spline and insert it into the groove of the stair nose. Apply another bead of glue to the top of the exposed portion of the spline. Apply a bead of glue to the bottom lip of the groove of the piece of flooring to be installed.
Place the piece of flooring into position and gently tap the pieces together using the tapping block. A small, continuous bead of glue must ooze to the surface to ensure a water-resistant joint.
Remove the excess glue with a damp cloth followed by wiping with a clean, dry, cotton cloth. Setting the Router Bit Set the depth of the router bit by placing two pieces of flooring on a flat, sturdy surface with the factory grooves facing each other. After the bit has been installed into the router, place the router on the surface of the flooring and adjust the bit height visually to match the groove position.
To check the accuracy of your router bit setting, rout a groove on the tongue edge of a piece of scrap. If there is a slight scrap of the tongue left above or below the groove, adjust the bit depth accordingly and recheck your adjustment. NOTE: If desired, the stair nose and laminate may be grooved and splined together regardless of the direction of the laminate installation. When using splines the tongue or groove edge of the laminate flooring and the bottom lip of the stair nose must be removed.
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