How to Sew Easy Mitered Quilt Binding
Aug 07, · How to Create A Mitered Corner In You Quilt Binding. NOTE: I use a ? Binding strip to start out with. 1. Begin sewing your binding to the BACK of your quilt. (Start in the middle of one of the sides of your quilt) 2. When you come close to the corner of your quilt, stop sewing 1/4? from the edge of the quilt. 3. Leave your needle down. Coax the lower edge of the strip to form a degree angle. Fold the binding down, leaving the top of the fold flush with the edge of the quilt top behind it and its raw edge aligned with the next side of the quilt. The degree angle should be intact under the fold. Pin the quilt binding to the side of the quilt or align it as you sew.
In the beginning days of your quilt journey, every single step of how does insurance determine value of totaled car quilt-making process is new and kind of confusing. You marvel over details of beautiful stitching and perfectly matched pieces! It is actually really easy once you know the steps. It details out cornegs by step — the whole binding process!
NOTE: I use a 2. Begin sewing ob binding to the BACK of your quilt. Start in the middle of one of the wuilt of your quilt. Leave your needle down. Rotate your quilt degrees. The corner should be pointing towards you. Keeping the degree line tucked under. Fold your binding line down where the raw edges of the fabric match up with the raw edge of your trimmed quilt.
Notice in the photo how the folded edge aligns with the top edge of the quilt? Pinch the quilt to keep the layers from moving and put the quilt back in how to upload image in jsp servlet sewing machine. Repeat until 4 your quilt corners are sewn. Flip your quilt over. Now it is time to fold the binding around the edges.
I like to use these Wonder Clips to hold everything in place while I sew. They actually are amazing all over your sewing room! Tuck it all the way flat up in the corner. It might take a little practicing to get the mitered corner perfect, but you can do it! Keep at it. I believe in you! I like to use quklt seam ripper or the other end of my seam ripper which has a pointy end the official name for this tool escapes me at the moment. If you know what it is called, hit me up in the comments!
Sew your binding on the front using your sewing machine — or- you can sew it on by hand if you prefer! It does take a little practice bimding get miterred feel of how to manipulate the fabric, but I assure you that it gets easier with each quilt you create!
So, how did you cormers when you tried to create a mitered corner in your quilt binding? Were you successful? Do you need to work with your fabric a uow bit more? Let me know in the comments. For more tutorials and ideas for basic quilting tasks, check out my blog category Quilting Disclosure: To maintain this website, some of the links in the post above may be affiliate links.
Your corners are amazing! Mine seem to be very bulky and are hard to square up. Do you trim the batting back? I do not trim the batting. I have in the past cornefs I was learning how tog et the best corners and I just found that it never allowed them to be really square.
Great advice — I will try this on the next one! Great advice! Yes, yes, this is how I so it. Well, let me correct that statement. I managed to get one corner to turn out perfect on my last quilt. One Christmas baby snuggle quilt done, one top done, 2 more to go.
Then I can think about dl full size one. Again, qujlt tips are invaluable! Hi Patti! It takes practice to make it second nature… I have had many a wonky corner in my sewing days! Awesome progress on your Christmas quilts! Creating a mitered corner in your quilt binding is a really mltered step to learn! It is the exact steps that I go through for every quilt binding that I sew. Start in the qullt of one of the sides of your quilt 2. Sew straight through the corner of your quilt. Here is another angle of the same folded corner.
Holding the fabric in place, the next thing you want to do is to fold the top fabric over. Comments I need to work on it more. PS — The pointy end?
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After the quilt sandwich is complete, narrow fabric sewn around the outer edges makes up its binding. This holds together the edges of the quilt top, batting , and quilt backing , keeping them from fraying or coming apart in other ways.
Quilt binding can be sewn to the quilt in several ways, and one method uses continuous double-fold strips of fabric, which are long fabric strips folded in half to create a double layer before sewing.
The extra layer adds durability to a quilt's edges. Trim the quilt sandwich to remove excess batting and backing. If the quilt top is skewed, fold back the other two layers and use a rotary ruler to very carefully square up the quilt. Be sure to remove only tiny slices of the quilt so that edges do not become uneven. Create a continuous binding strip that's about 25 inches longer than the distance around all four corners of the quilt.
Starting about one-third of the distance between two corners, align the raw edge of one end of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt top, right sides together. Leave an approximate 3-inch unpinned tail of quilt binding at the beginning, then pin several inches of binding to the quilt, moving toward its corner. Do a quick alignment around the rest of the quilt, without pinning, to make sure no seam allowances within the quilt binding will end up at a corner of the quilt, where seams would create too much bulk.
If you find a seam allowance at a corner, change the starting point of the binding and recheck. Sew the quilt binding to the side of the quilt, leaving the beginning tail free. Use the seam allowance you chose when you made the quilt binding. Stop sewing before you reach the corner of the quilt, ending the seam the same distance from the approaching quilt edge as the width of the seam allowance. Following that rule is the most important thing you can do to create perfect mitered corners.
Sew a few backstitches, cut threads and remove the quilt from the machine. Fold the unsewn tail of quilt binding straight up, positioning it so that its right edge is parallel with the next side of the quilt to be bound.
Coax the lower edge of the strip to form a degree angle. Fold the binding down, leaving the top of the fold flush with the edge of the quilt top behind it and its raw edge aligned with the next side of the quilt. The degree angle should be intact under the fold. Pin the quilt binding to the side of the quilt or align it as you sew. Sew two to four stitches where the first seam ended, and then sew a backstitch to the beginning of that seam.
Continue sewing the binding to the side of the quilt. End the seam the same distance from the next corner as you did for the first. Miter the second corner as you did the first and continue sewing along the third side of the quilt.
Treat remaining corners in the same way. Some sewing machine presser feet have markings that help you know when you are a specific distance from an approaching edge, which is helpful.
When you're sewing quilt binding to the last side, end the seam four to six inches from the original starting point, less for miniatures, and then backstitch.
Trim excess binding, leaving a tail that's long enough to overlap the first unsewn tail by about four inches. Unfold and make a degree cut at the end of the beginning tail of quilt binding. Lay the unfolded ending tail under the angled beginning tail. Refold the quilt binding, then pin and sew the remainder to the quilt. Here's a tidy way to start and finish your double-fold quilt binding:.
The third strip on the right in the photo shows you how the strip looks when re-folded. The strip is narrow since it's for a miniature quilt with thin batting. Wider strips will look slightly different when folded. Align the right edge of the opened binding strip along one side of the quilt, as explained in the previous instructions. Fold the strip lengthwise again and pin-mark it one inch or so beyond the point where it becomes two layers again.
Unfold, and sew to the quilt, beginning at the angled tip and sewing through only one layer of the strip. Stop at the pin mark, take a few backstitches and cut the threads. Lift the presser foot and refold the binding lengthwise again, aligning both edges of the strip evenly with the edge of the quilt.
Check the initial seam to make sure it extends well underneath the folded, angled binding edge that now rests on top. Start sewing where the first seam ended. Continue sewing the quilt binding to the quilt, stopping to miter each corner, as explained earlier.
When you've worked your way around the quilt and are nearing the starting point, stop the sewing machine, needle down. Trim away the excess ending tail, leaving enough length to tuck into the opening created by the starting tail. Realign the quilt binding with the quilt and sew through all layers to finish attaching it, ending the seam just past the beginning of the first seam. Use a blindstitch and matching thread to secure the angled fold to the tucked-in strip.
Sew the quilt binding to the back of the quilt. This method produces a little bulk where binding strips are joined, but the bulk is not excessive and the method is quick and easy to accomplish. Carefully remove excess batting and backing by trimming those layers to meet the raw edge created by the quilt binding and quilt top.
Take care not to distort the seam allowance. Starting along the side, take the folded edge of the double-fold binding to the reverse side of the quilt. It should cover the seam you used to attach the binding. Use a sharp needle or something similar to sew the folded edge of the quilt binding to the quilt backing with a blind-stitch such as you would use in needle turn applique.
Use a matching thread or any thread that blends with your fabric. Do not let the stitches travel through all layers, as they would be visible on the front of the quilt. Sew all the way around the quilt. Fold the corners into neat miters on the front and back as you reach them—the miters will form almost automatically. Some quilters go back and take a few invisible stitches in the front of each mitered corner after the quilt is finished. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.
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